Oman – Muscat

Tags

Barr Al Jissah, corniche, minaret, Muscat, Mutrah, Oman, Oman Dive Center, Sultan Qaboos

View of Muscat's Mutrah Corniche and Mosque

March 27, 2012 :: Muscat

Our last day in Oman and we got up early to go to the Mutrah Fish Souk.  We thought we got up pretty early but evidently, fishermen wake up way earlier because by the time we got there, it seemed as if they were nearly done with their day.  Anyway, there we were, moseying between rows of fish and to say we stuck out would be an understatement.

From there we took a brisk walk along the Mutrah Corniche, overlooking the bay.  It was early in the morning but already, we could feel the heat so we headed back to our hotel to freshen up and head off towards the Grand Mosque, hoping to get there before 11am as non-Muslims are only allowed in up until that time.  Unfortunately, we got there just a few minutes too late.

We then headed towards Barr Al-Jissah Resort and the Oman Dive Center.  Looking to have a quick swim in their pools, we made as though we “belonged” there and snuck in.  It worked and after a refreshing swim and chilled out time, we headed back out to the airport and back to reality.

Minaret

Fish Souk in Mutrah

Mutrah Corniche

Oman Dive Center

Oman Dive Center

Barr Al Jissah Resort

Barr Al Jissah

Grand Mosque, Muscat

Grand Mosque, Muscat

Oman – At the Grand Canyon of Arabia

Tags

Grand Canyon of Arabia, Jebel Shams, Muscat, Mutrah, Nizwa, Oman

Jebel Shams - The Grand Canyon of Arabia

March 26, 2012 :: Day 4 – Nizwa and Jebel Shams

Our second last day and we got up pretty early so that we could head off early towards Nizwa the old capital of Oman during the 6th and 7th centuries AD.  It was once the center of trade, education, art and religion.  Today, lying at the base of the Western Hajar Mountains, it is the center for date growing and it’s main attraction is the souk and the fort.

After a quick breakfast at the rooftop restaurant of the Mina Hotel overlooking the Mutrah corniche, we headed south and out of Muscat.  We reached Nizwa and walked around the souk.  It seemed more like a tourist attraction than a marketplace where locals would frequent as we bumped into the same people we saw back at the desert camp.  After a bit of walking around and looking at the trinkets and the numerous Khanjars, we headed towards the Nizwa Fort.  It was built in 1668 A.D by Imam Sultan Bin Saif Al Ya’rubi and it is Oman’s most visited national monument.

Nizwa Fort entrance

Nizwa Fort

View of minaret and date palms from the fort.

Again at the suggestion of Yousef, we decided to go further inland towards Jebel Shams (which translates to Mountain of the Sun).  Up until recently, apparently the roads were only accessible with a 4×4 as it was all gravel coupled with tight hairpin bends and a steep incline.  For the most part, we were able to reach about 60% of the way up to the top and all the while, our little car was screaming as we drove up the steep roads with views of the gorges on the one side.  We eventually hit the end of the tarred road and what lay ahead was a winding track of gravel going further into the mountain.  Luckily there as a “4×4 taxi” in front of us and knowing that we would need his services, he flagged us down and offered to take us up to the top and back.

In the end, it was all worth it as we reached the top and saw what is known as the Grand Canyon of Arabia.  Just like the time I saw the Grand Canyon in Arizona, my eyes could not take in enough of what lay out there.  It is just feels too unreal as you look down the cliff, a 1,000 meter drop to the bottom.  I tried to take photos but as usual, you can’t capture the full nature of it and it never comes nearly as close to actually seeing it in real life.  If ever in Oman, this is once place you should not miss out on.

Tarred roads... so far so good

End of the road for our Suzuki but the start to the top of Jebel Shams

The canyons!

Our taxi driver with his buddies.

A little settlement at the bottom of the canyon

Now that is a real 4x4

Oman – Peace and Paradise

Tags

1000 Nights Desert Camp, Bimmah, Desert, Dunes, Muscat, Oman, Sharqiya Sands, Sinkhole, Wadi Shab

Sunrise in the desert

March 25, 2012 :: Day 3 - 

We were determined to catch the sunrise the next morning and make the most of our time in the desert so we got up at 5.30am and quickly (and sleepily) climbed up the soft sands to scout out the best vantage point to witness the first rays of the day over the Sharqiya dunes.  The rest of the camp was still fast asleep and there was total silence.  It was a crisp and cool morning and up on the dunes and there was an absolute feeling of tranquility.  There is just something special about the desert that makes you feel at peace.  I love the smooth contours of the dunes, they way they rise up against the desert floor and the fine grains of sand that almost looks liquid as it flows down the crest of the dunes.  You can’t help but feel reflective as you sit there, in the vast expanse of the desert as you eye scans over wave upon wave of dunes stretching all the way to the horizon.  Most of all, its the contentment you feel as you sit there in the silence and experience the emptiness of it all.

Once the sun was up we knew we didn’t have long until it would start getting hot so we climbed back down by which time there was already some activity in the camp as the other tourists were making their way to breakfast.  We did the same and waited for Youssef, the guide we had met in Ras Al Hadd to give us a ride back out of the camp along with the Italian couple he was showing around.  On the way out of the desert, we stopped by at another bedouin house for some dates and coffee.  He dropped us off where we left our car the previous day and we parted ways from there on but not before reminding us to visit Wadi Shab on our way back to Muscat.

A steep drive down the dune

Dining area in 1000 nights desert camp

A must-have in the desert

Wadi Shab is situated just after Tiwi.  You can get there from the coastal road that links Muscat to Sur.  There are brown information boards that guide visitors.  We parked our car by the dual carriageway and walked down to the mouth of the wadi.  This must be one of the most beautiful wadi’s in Oman because it is flanked on both sides by high cliff walls and the water is a clear blue with date palms on either side of the banks. There were some local boatsmen who offered to take us across to the other bank for 200 Baisa (USD 0.50).  Our guy who offered to take us was an old man, Said.  He dropped us on the other bank and told us that by 4pm, the water would recede and that we wouldn’t need to get a boat back.  As we walked into the wadi, Said turned his boat around and made his way back to the other side, possibly to ferry more random tourists who might’ve stopped by on their way.

Walking on what seemed like a dry river bed full of white round pebbles, the mid afternoon heat got more and more intense as we walked further in.  On both sides were the rocky walls of the mountains and the place looked surreal, like something out of Indiana Jones or even Jurassic Park.  After about 15 minutes of walking, we saw the first signs of water.  Again, what seems like the trademark turquoise blue of the Omani wadi’s.  We followed the footpath further in, climbing up rocks and walking along the side walls of the wadi.  We finally reached a pool of water and by then it was so hot that we decided it was time to step in and take a swim.  It’s no wonder that they describe oases as pockets of paradise because after seeing these wadi’s, it’s hard to see these clear blue pools of water surrounded by green trees as anything short of paradise.

After some time there, we made our way back to where our car was parked and true to form, as Said had said, the water had receded somewhat but not to the extent that we had hoped it would.  By the time we got back, the boatsmen were also nowhere to be found.  I reckon they were having their siesta so there was no other choice but to wade through the knee deep water, over the sharp little pebbles to get back on to the other bank.  It was probably not more than 50 meters but it was definitely not an enjoyable experience, having to walk barefoot over the slippery pebbles.  It was painful to say the least but we made it eventually.

We were finally back on the road and on our way to Muscat (with a slight detour at Bimmah to see the sink hole).

Entrance to Wadi Shab

The iconic blue waters of the wadi

A clear blue pool - we couldn't help but jump in!

The return journey out

Boatmen waiting to ferry people to the other bank

Back up by our car with the view of Tiwi village

Bimmah sinkhole

Oman – From Wadis to Dunes

Tags

1000 Nights Desert Camp, Al Ghabbi, Bedouin, Oman, Ras Al Hadd, Sharqiya Sands, Sur, Wani Bani Khalid

From 1000 Nights Desert Camp - Sharqiya Sands, Oman

March 24, 2012 :: Day 2 – Wadi Bani Khalid and Sharqiya Sands

The next morning, we got up at 7am and after having a full breakfast, we set off towards the Sharqiya sand dunes.  It seems like the roads have just been laid because we could not find any driving directions on Google Maps from Ras Al Hadd to Sur and from Sur to Al Ghabbi, the entrance to Sharqiya Sands.  At 8.30am, we traced our way back to Sur and from there back on to route 23 towards the desert.  Before getting to Al Ghabbi, we took a detour to the right into Wadi Bani Khalid.  Getting to the wadi from the main road was a further 20km up winding mountain roads that eventually opened up out onto a panoramic view of green date palm trees below in the valley.

Our small Suzuki was practically struggling to go up the steep roads but it was not for too long because we were soon coasting down on the other side towards the wadi.  We passed some small hamlets and groups of houses and finally arrived at our destination.  After a brief walk through the trees, we were rewarded by the sight of clear blue waters surrounded by greenery and contrasted by the sharp rock faces that encircled the wadi. This must be one of the more popular wadis as there were people swimming and even a small cafe on the rocks.  After some exploring, it was time to head back towards Al Ghabbi where our 4×4 transfer would be waiting for us to take us into the dunes towards 1000 Nights Desert Camp.

Driving up the mountain pass towards the wadi

Towards the Moqul caves

Entrance to Wadi Bani Khalid

At the wadi, some Omani men taking a swim

A village by the wadi

Sharqiya Sands

We arrived at Al Ghabbi around 13h30 and our driver to take us to the camp was only due to pick us up in another 30 minutes so rather than waiting in the hot sun at the nearby Shell petrol station, we decided to venture into the village.  After a few quick turns, we realised we had hit a dead end – well at least it was a dead end for non 4×4′s because the tarred road gave way to a sea of sand.  Spotting an opportunity to make some quick money, a young bedouin boy drove by in his 4×4 and offered to take us up to the nearby dunes and see his pet camels and home in exchange for some Rials.  We decided to take him up on the offer since we had nothing better to do other than wait for a further 20 minutes in the heat for our driver to pick us up.

Turns out that our young tour guide, Mohammed was only 13 and despite his age, he was quite capable of manoeuvring his big car in the dunes.  He took us in to see a bedouin home and welcomed us with some dates and strong black coffee.  On our way out, he introduced us to his camels and brought us back in time for our transfer into the desert.

Mohammed, our 13 year old driver

Mohammed with his camel

Not your average pets

It was a 40km drive further into the Sharqiya Sands.  The camp was opened in 2006 and over the years its has been slowly expanding with the addition of new tents each year.  It is however not overcrowded and when we arrived, we were the only guests there so we got the opportunity to have the entire camp to ourselves for a while before a few other tourists started trickling in in time to see the sunset.  The camp looks like its at the bottom of a valley, dotted by small trees and sheltered on both sides by huge sand dunes.  We took some time out by taking a swim at the camp’s pool and eating some dates before heading up the dunes to watch the sunset and it was worth the climb.  On top of the dunes, everything is quiet and peaceful.  We could see our camp way down at the bottom and it looked tiny.  We could see the other tourists as dots on top of the dunes on the far end of the camp across from us.  As the sun set behind the ancient dunes, the sand got a lot cooler and the wind started to pick up as the air that flowed toward the sea during the hot day rushed back inland.  Apparently the wind patterns here have remained the same and because of this, these dunes are considered to be old dunes, that is, they do not shift.

Lastly, we were all treated to a huge dinner prepared by the camp staff (who were of Nepalese and Bangladeshi origin).  By 10pm, it was all lights out at the camp and for the first time in a long time, I could really see the night sky filled with stars.

Taking a drive into the desert

Arabic tent at the 1000 Nights Desert Camp

The pool at the camp

1000 Nights Desert Camp

View of the camp

The Sharqiya dunes

Inside the camp

Sunset on the dunes

I LOVE OMAN!

“When it’s dark outside, you can see the stars” – Persian proverb.

Oman – In the land of Frankincense

Tags

Barr Al Jissah, Muscat, Mutrah Corniche, Oman, Oman Dive Center, Ras Al Hadd, Sur, Turtle Resort, Wadi Bani Khalid

A village on route to Wadi Bani Khalid, Oman.

When one thinks about holiday destinations, Oman is not a country that would automatically come to mind.  It might not even feature on the top twenty list of places to visit but one thing is for sure – after seeing what the Sultanate of Oman has to offer in terms of its natural beauty and the diverse landscapes, it should definitely be among the top must-see destinations for any traveler looking for a unique experience.

This is the land of Frankincense, Myrrh and Gold.  It is a land that conjures up images of bedouin tribes and caravans criss-crossing the desert, oases of clear turquoise water and date palms.  Anyone visiting it can find all of this and more.  Situated to the east of Yemen and south-east of Saudi Arabia, Oman is on the tip of the Arabian Peninsula with the sea spanning from the north east to the south giving it a coastline of over 3000km. Having opened its doors to tourism in the late 90s, Oman has still retained its old world charm.  The capital, Muscat is tucked between the rocky mountains on one side and opens up to the Gulf of Oman on the other.  There are no skyscrapers and along the corniche life still remains simple as you can see men in their crisp white dishdashas and women in their black abeyyas while they take their evening stroll.  Omanis are warm and hospitable and everywhere we went, we were never in short supply of welcome tea and dates.

Even though its a world class city with great infrastructure it has still managed maintain its culture and way of life.  I hope it remains to be so despite the increase in tourism.

March 23, 2012 :: Day 1 – Muscat to Ras Al Hadd ::

View of Mutrah Corniche from Hotel Mina, across from the Fish Souk - Muscat, Oman

After an early morning flight out of Bangalore and a transit in Sharjah, we arrived in Muscat at 10am.  Compared to the heavy traffic and the bustle of Bangalore, Muscat was a quiet and welcome relief.  It was probably made more evident because we arrived on a Friday and the roads were empty since it was their equivalent of a Sunday.  We had hired what seemed like the smallest car on the road, a Suzuki Celero and it was clear that the Omani’s liked their 4x4s (which made sense to us later on as we discovered the terrain).

Entrance to Barr Al Jissah during one of our many wrong turns.

Inside Barr Al Jissah Resort, Oman

The Gulf of Oman

Reception area - Barr Al Jissah

Despite the small size of the city, finding our way out of Muscat without the help of a GPS took a couple of wrong turns and in the process, we discovered the Oman Dive Center and the luxury resort of Barr Al Jissah near Al Bustan.  After a brief walk around the resort and making a mental note to come back on our last day, we were finally on the open road and on our way towards Sur.

Finally on our way Sur-side!

Sur is a sleepy fishing town about 350km to the south of Muscat.  The newly built dual carriageway linking Muscat to Sur took us past numerous wadi’s, through mountain passes and then back along the coast.  We initially thought that the place we were staying at was in Sur but later found out that the Turtle Resort was at Ras Al Hadd, a further 40km away.  Nonetheless, we found our way there occasionally stopping at the petrol stations to ask for directions.

View of Sur as we were leaving towards Ras Al Hadd. There are goats and camels everywhere.

In the end, we arrived at the resort and it was worth all the wrong turns and detours.  It was quiet, rustic and rewarding to sit there in what seemed like the middle of nowhere looking out into the sea.  We did not spot any turtles but we did have a good dinner so I guess it made up for it.  It was time for an early night considering we would have an early morning start the next day, driving out towards the 1000 Nights Desert Camp in the Sharqiya Sands.

A little refreshing stop after a whole day of driving - Ras Al Hadd Turtle Beach Resort

The beach huts - Ras Al Hadd, Oman

Simple rooms at Turtle Beach Resort - Ras Al Hadd, Oman

Minimalism

Tags

Blood Diamond, Chicago, Inception, Invictus, Minimalism, Movie Posters, Oliver Twist, Rocky, Taxi Driver

Inception

Invictus

Taxi Driver

Chicago

Rocky

Oliver Twist

Blood Diamond

An Indian Summer

Tags

Bangalore, India, indian sunset

Lazy afternoons in Bangalore

From the sweet scent of incense from my neighbours to the melodic sound of the evening call to prayers of the muezzin from a nearby mosque, I sit here in the warm glow of an Indian sunset and experience the full impact of this country on my senses.  Although I complain about the traffic, the noise, the dust, the pollution and the non-stop stream of people on my daily commute to work, it’s been an interesting 10 months so far.

If someone had told me 4 years ago whilst on holiday in India for the very first time that I would be back to live and work here, I wouldn’t have believed them at all.  In fact, the way I pictured things to turn out back then is not even remotely close to what it is today – and not in a bad way either.  It just makes life more interesting – I have no idea what will happen in a year’s time from now because so far, for the past 5 years, each year has been totally different from the last and it’s been completely unpredictable.  And although there were ups and downs, I’m glad to say I’ve enjoyed every experience along the way.

Some R&R in Thailand

Tags

Ark Bar, Bangkok, JEATH museum, Kanchanaburi, Khao San Road, Koh Nangyuan, Koh Samui, Pong Phen Guest House, River Kwai, Street Food, Thailand

Koh Nangyuan

A three hour flight away from the bustle of Bangalore and you’re in Thailand!  I was in serious need of a break after working throughout December while I see my friends post their pictures of their exotic vacays on Facebook.  Sunny skies and beaches – yup, it was time for me to hit the islands too.

First stop was Bangkok or should I say: “The city of angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarma” (thanks Wikipedia).

Yup, that’s what the name means.  After a day of sightseeing and also getting taken for a ride by a tuk-tuk driver who was adamant that I visit numerous gem stores, I had a pleasant meet up with one of my friends who has been galavanting around South East Asia since the end of his internship late last year.

By the way, in terms of getting around in a tuk tuk, this is where I was missing India the most.  These Thai tuk tuk drivers will shamelessly charge a tourist between 100 and 200 Bhat for less than 2km – what a rip off.  This was when I was missing Indian tuk tuk rates.  I opted to walk instead which was not even 15 minutes.  Luckily, most of  the attractions in Bangkok are within walking distance from Khao San Road.

Bangkok

Yup, it sure it Thailand

Lucky Buddha Temple, Bangkok

Standing Buddha Temple, Bangkok

Near Khao San Road, Bangkok

From Bangalore to Bangkok! Meeting up with Carlos who is here to stay for another month at least.

The next morning, it was off to Kanchanaburi and the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai and the Thai-Burma death railway, aptly named because during its construction, it is said that 13,000 prisoners of war died and were buried along it.  Yeah… morbid for a holiday I know…

Japanese Memorial outside the JEATH museum, Kanchanaburi

JEATH Museum... nothing much to see in there apart for some creepy looking props. Eery indeed even in the middle of the day. Finally found out JEATH stands for Japan, England, Australia, America, Thai and Holland... what about Burma? Hmm....

The Bridge over River Kwai. For Reals. The arches are the originals from back in the day.

On the bridge.

If you go to Kanchanaburi, this place is pretty neat to stay at. Right by the river, good rooms, great price and even has a nice pool where you can cool off after a walk to the bridge. NICE, about THB800 per night.

Finally, last stop for the next four days was Koh Samui.  A perfect ending of sun, surf and white sands.

Early morning ferry to Koh Samui. 5am to be precise... YAWN...

And oh hello! It was definitely worth it.

Koh Nangyuan

Koh Samui - paradise indeed!

STREET FOOD!!!

Khao San Road, Bangkok

Shiggen!

Bangkok nights

Bangkok days

In Kanchanaburi

Catching a snooze in Sri Lanka

Tags

Galle, Galle Fort, Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka, Time and Tide

Fishing boat on Hikkaduwa Beach, Sri Lanka

Looking for a break from the traffic and buzz of Bangalore, I decided to go to the island of Sri Lanka for some much needed R&R.  What started out as a “Do-Nothing” beach holiday turned into something more eventful.  Sticking to my theme of this year’s “¿Por que no?” it was a weekend of… well… fun.  You’re only in your twenties once right?

Good morning Sri Lanka!

First Stop: Chennai

It was Diwali in Bangalore and finding a taxi at 9.30pm to take me to the nearby bus stand was proving to be a failure.  Eventually I hailed a tuk-tuk and after being charged double of what it would normally cost to get to the station, I got to the bus stand just in time.  The whole city was celebrating the festival of lights and they were doing so with fireworks… LOTS of fireworks.  As I sat waiting to board the bus, a stray rocket landed not more than 3 meters from where I was sitting and I wondered how many people actually get injured during this festival.  I was definitely looking forward to my quiet time in Sri Lanka.

I arrived on a rainy Chennai morning at their Mofussil Central Bus Stand.  Even at 5.30am, the place was packed.  Dodging sleeping people, trash and dogs on the floor I made my way towards the ticket counter which provided me with no help.  Finally after getting no information on which bus goes to the airport, luck would have it that there was a couple who was also on route to Sri Lanka and we decided to split the cab.

Hikkaduwa Beach, Sri Lanka

Hello Sri Lanka!

I arrived in Sri Lanka at noon after just an hour on the plane.  I was expecting it to be similar to India – well, the traffic part at least but what I experienced was totally the opposite.  The streets were clean, quiet, cars stayed in their lanes and there was NO HOOTING!  It was a welcome surprise and driving through Colombo, I could see the many Buddhist influences there with the domed stupas and signs that read “Loving Kindness” and “Prisoners are human beings too.”  The architecture was also quite distinct from that of India.  It resembled more of those found on the temples in Burma and other South East Asian countries where Buddhism is the main religion.

There are frequent buses from Bandaranaike Airport to Colombo and the journey takes about an hour.  I was on a shuttle bus with three Chinese tourists and upon reaching the main bus stand, it turns out they hadn’t changed their USD into Sri Lankan Rupees and were negotiating with the fare collector to accept their one Dollar bills…  Apparently they didn’t want to draw money at the airport ATM because they didn’t want to pay the charges but seriously, how they thought they were going to get around I don’t know. Now they were going to end up not paying the guy so eventually I changed their USD with my Sri Lankan Rupees and I was on my way on yet another bus to Hikkaduwa.

Surf's up! Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

Hikkaduwa

Three hours later, I arrived at Time and Tide Beach Resort.  Well, it sounds fancy but it’s more like a small sea side motel.  Even with the fan on full blast and a cold shower, it was still quite warm.

I spent the next day taking a walk along the beach and having the occasional dip in the sea.  Compared to Goa, the beach here was quiet and less touristy but there was a fair share of surfers around too.  It’s small enough that you keep bumping into the same people on a regular basis and that’s when I bumped into three Israeli surfers, Uzzi, Avi and Rotm who were here on a surfing holiday.

After exchanging nods and smiles during the day, I bumped into them yet again later that night at the Time and Tide restaurant.  Turns out they lived just a few beach huts away and were looking for a place to watch the FC Barcelona game that night and seeing that I was there by myself, they suggested I joined them at the local Sam’s bar and so I thought… “por que no?!”  The evening gave way to an early morning walk along the beach back to my resort… Who said traveling alone would be a bore?

Exactly, why not?

Fishing boat, Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

Time for some quiet time

Time for a nap

Inside Galle Fort

A Dutch coffee shop inside Galle Fort, Sri Lanka

Streets inside Galle Fort

People of Sri Lanka

Wall Art

A shagadelic rotty shop

Spaces

Tags

Furniture, Hyde Park, Johannesburg, Loft apartments

THE LOFT ON TEN

When my friend quit her job in Banking and Finance and decided to follow her dreams to go into fashion, we all thought she was going mad.  We had done an undergrad in Business Science together, started our first roles at South Africa’s top private bank and then she went on to do consulting at one of the big four.  It would’ve been an easy route to take, climbing the corporate ladder and earning a steady and generous income but when she suddenly quit and decided to go back to school again, I know we all secretly wished we had the guts to do the same.  Four years on, she’s finished her studies and has now just started her journey towards realizing her dream.

Before I left for India, she commissioned me to take a few pictures for her new shop/studio.  This is the place.  A loft in Hyde Park, Johannesburg.  So this post is for her and to wish her luck!

Hyde Park apartment, Johannesburg.

Tops on show

Rails

Pretty in pink stripes

Wake up and smell the flowers

Black and bling

A roof with a view